Njegusi, Montenegro (see on Montenegro map) - a very small village, which is located 19 km from the former royal residence Cetinje and 1000 meters above sea level, at the foot of the Lovcen Nature Reserve. Njegusi can be reached via Cetinje or via the winding Kattaro stairs, which offer magnificent views of the Bay of Kotor. The village where the Petrovich (Negosh) dynasty was born is a small group of stone houses along the road that have preserved their ancient identity. In Njegusi, life is slow, surrounded by mountain peaks. According to the results of the 2003 census, no more than 30 local residents remained in Njegusi, whose measured life is interrupted in the summer season by crowds of tourists who want to taste local delicacies and plunge into the Montenegrin outback.

Negushi in winter
Negushi in early April

In one of the local barn-like houses, Peter Petrovich Negosh, the ruler of Montenegro from 1830 to 1851, was born. and Metropolitan of the Montenegrin-Primorsky Diocese of the Serbian Orthodox Church. The Petrović-Negoš dynasty was the ruling dynasty of Montenegro from 1697 to 1918. Petar Petrovich Negosh made a huge contribution to the development of Montenegro and the formation of Montenegro as a state, according to his will, he was buried in a chapel on the top of Mount Lovcen, which was destroyed by the Austrians during the First World War, after which it was restored, but again destroyed - now by the communists. Subsequently, on the site of the chapel, the Negosh mausoleum was built, where the remains of the glorious Lord of Montenegro are now located. The Mausoleum of Negosh is open to tourists (admission is paid, 2.5 euros). Petr Petrovich Negosh was a statesman, a reformer, he did everything possible to turn Montenegro into an independent modern state. But to no lesser extent, Petr Negosh is famous for his work as a poet. His poem "Mountain Crown" crowns the work of a talented politician and is recognized as one of the most significant poetic works of Yugoslav literature.

Dear God, you are in control.
You sit on a heavenly throne
and with a mighty gaze you kindle
round dances are light in space;
You dispelled the clouds of stardust
from under the throne of his saint
and called them God's worlds,
You revived every speck of dust
and sowed with intelligent seed;
in your hand you hold the book of the universe,
where all destinies are written
all worlds and all rational beings,
mercifully you alone decided
breathe life into pliable limbs
the ant and the lion, the king of the desert,
clear the sky above the Black Mountain,
chase away the thundercloud,
take away the lightning and thunder!

(an excerpt from the poem "The Crown of the Mountain", Petr Petrovich Negosh)
Despite the small size of Njegusi, this village still has something to brag about. Here they make the most delicious and famous throughout Montenegro Negush cheese and prosciutto. Prosciutto is made in every home, so the sign "Domachi prosciutto, sir and honey" hangs almost everywhere. Prosciutto is a traditional Croatian and Montenegrin dish - pork ham, which is smoked on coals for about a month, and then dried in a cold dark place for several months. Such meat can be stored at room temperature for about a year. It is usually cut into very thin slices and served with sheep's cheese, olives and onions.

Prosciutto in the process of drying
Ready prosciutto and Negush cheese

In Negushi there are several restaurants and taverns of national cuisine (there can’t be any other!), where you will definitely be served prshrut, and cheese, and freshly baked bread, and chevapi (small sausages made from pure meat), and kaymak (baked foams removed from chilled, full-fat milk; something between sour cream, cottage cheese and butter), and the local, richer Vranac wine. Go to the Zora pub, where you will be met by the good-natured owner of the establishment Nikola and his son Michko; have a glass of rakia with the host or just talk about life. From personal experience, the author knows that the language barrier will not be a problem 🙂 Michko, by the way, speaks both Russian and English. A hearty lunch at Zora for two will cost 20-25 euros. You can also stay there very inexpensively and for the night - Zora apartments.

Zora zucchini
Chevapi and smoked ribs
In the photo: homemade pickled peppers and cucumbers, kaimak, sausages, Montenegrin beer Niksicko

At the entrance to Negushi stands the Church of the Apostle Peter; there is a small cemetery around it. This church is remarkable in that it does not have a specially designated bell tower; you can ring the bells from the outside, directly from the ground.

Formally, the Church of St. Peter belongs to the village. Vrbice.
Grave of philosopher and screenwriter